Best Of The West: A Complete Guide To The Western Fashion Trend

Whoa! Hang on. Is this a 19th-century Wild West saloon bar you’ve just stumbled into? No, it’s just the local watering hole in your city’s edgy hipster district. So why is everyone dressed like an extra from a Spaghetti Western? Well, it could have something to do with menswear’s recent obsession with all things cowboy.

For a hot minute now, male wardrobes have been getting a lot more rootin’ and, in some cases, tootin’, with horseback staples like plaid shirts, bootcut denim and even the odd pair of cowboy boots working their way into the discourse. Is it an acquired taste? Almost certainly, but there are ways to embrace it without going full John Wayne fancy dress.

Below is a guide to the trend, including its origin (aside from the glaringly obvious), key pieces to know, and some useful tips for pulling them off in a non-costumey fashion. Keep scrolling to find out more.

Why Now?

MR PORTER

A few reasons, really. As is often the case, the current infatuation with Western garb is something that began on high-fashion runways. It’s nothing new – everyone from Prada to Saint Laurent has drawn heavily on the aesthetic in the past, but it has been gathering pace. Case in point: Pharrell Williams’ first collection as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, which included fringed trousers, Western shirts, bolo ties and heeled boots.

Then there’s the celeb factor, with the likes of Harry Styles, A$AP Rocky and Beyoncé all leaning into the look of late.

Taking a step back, the whole thing is likely another response to years of minimalism, quiet luxury and restraint. It is, at its core, about going big. Unconventional shapes, bold colours and excessive detail feature heavily throughout. Think of it as the pendulum swinging back the opposite way.

Key Western Pieces

Western Shirt

A cornerstone of cowboy style, the Western shirt is characterised by its snap fasteners, pointed yokes, and a durable denim or heavyweight cotton construction.

Born at the rodeo, it has since found its way into the modern man’s wardrobe as a casual piece that can be dressed up or down, but is most at home with a pair of jeans and some brown leather boots.

To keep it classy, avoid novelty embellishments like piping and embroidery and err on the side of classic.

Suede Jacket

A proper suede jacket is the cowboy aesthetic’s key investment piece. A fixture of the Western wardrobe for as long as it has existed, these heavy leather layers range from cropped truckers to the more flamboyant fringed versions.

Unsurprisingly, the former tend to be a better investment when it comes to getting plenty of wear as they’re easy to style and can be subtle enough not to completely steal the show.

Bootcut Jeans

As the name suggests, bootcut jeans were designed to be worn over traditional cowboy boots without bunching up or getting caught. To achieve this, they flare out towards the leg opening, giving them a distinctive silhouette.

They’re not the easiest of garments to style, but they’re an excellent choice if you’re sick and tired of straight-leg denim and want to get stuck into something a little out of the ordinary.

Cowboy Boots

If bootcut jeans are tricky to style, it doesn’t get any easier with this next item. But that’s kind of the point. The current trend for cowboy boots plays heavily on the idea of subverting norms and pairing things that wouldn’t normally be styled together.

Head to Insta or TikTok and you’ll see them being rocked with tracksuit bottoms and jorts. Are we saying you should follow suit? Well, that’s up to you, but a safer way to wear them would be with classic workwear staples, such as a twill overshirt, a tucked white T-shirt or vest, and some slightly bootcut denim.

Quilted Vest

Less Barbour, more Woolrich. Think oversized baffles, buffalo checks, leather yokes and press-stud fastenings.

One to throw on over a denim shirt in fall or team up with some heavy knitwear when the winter weather rolls in.

Big Belt Buckles

Oversized buckles are a signature part of the Western look. A statement piece through and through, they can feel daunting to wear, but when styled carefully, they deliver character rather than a caricature.

Use one to anchor a simple, casual outfit – think plaid shirt, jeans and boots – letting the buckle be the focal point.

Styling Tips

It’s a risky business diving headfirst into cowboy clobber. One wrong move and you’re Woody from Toy Story. Here are a few handy tricks to prevent that from happening.

One Piece At A Time

Wrangler

Don’t. Overdo. It.

As with any fashion trend, you want to avoid leaning too heavily into it. Consider Western just another element to incorporate into your personal style, rather than making it your entire personality.

Think a Western shirt might go well with the stuff you’re already wearing? Great. Buy one. Just don’t make the mistake of getting the jeans, boots, hat and lasso to match.

Think Fabrics

Stetson

Western fashion is all about quality. Always choose the thrift store over the high street, and look for pieces based on the handfeel of the fabric.

You can learn a great deal about a piece by having the material in hand.

Mix And Match

MR PORTER

Again, don’t fall into the cowboy cosplay trap. Instead, mix Western pieces with modern pieces to create something new, interesting and individual.

Keep it Neutral

Cherry Los Angeles

Some of these pieces are pretty eye-catching as it is. They don’t need to be rendered in bold colours to draw further attention.

Keep the palette neutral and let the silhouette and craftsmanship do the talking.

The Confidence Factor

Wrangler

Above all else, wear this stuff with confidence. Things like cowboy boots and bootcut jeans take nerves of steel to wear for the first time, so own it.

Wear them like you belong in them, or they’ll end up wearing you instead.